Welcome guests -- and reassure them that they're ringing the right bell -- with a mat displaying your house number.

You can easily embellish an inexpensive doormat with hardware-store supplies to create an accent for your entrance that is both functional and decorative.

Materials

Coir doormat (18-by-30-inch coir mat, which is made from the stiff fibers of coconut husks)Scissors

Masking tape in 3-inch and 3/4-inch widths

Address numbers

Card stock

Utility knife

Ruler

T pins

12-ounce canEnamel spray paint

1. Create a border around its perimeter with 3-inch tape, positioning it 1 1/4 inches from edge. For a second border, affix 3/4-inch tape, leaving 1/2 inch between borders. Print out figures (ours are 650-point type), then photocopy onto card stock, and cut out with a utility knife; or choose 6-inch numbers from a hardware store. Use a ruler to center numbers; pin paper ones to mat.

2. In a well-ventilated area, hold spray paint (in a contrasting color) 4 to 6 inches over mat and work in small circles; bring closer to paint edges of mat.

3. Let dry at least 2 hours before removing tape and numbers.

White Prodded Rug

**I'm not sure where this tutorial came from so if it is yours please accept my apologies and let me know and of course I will give you full credit.

You will need:
Rug canvas (I bought mine at Hobby Lobby only $2.49)
Something to push the fabric through the canvas with i.e. large knitting needle, latch hook, prodding tool.
About 10 yards of fabric (it really depends on the weight of the fabric and the amount or pile that you want)

Optional:
Rotary cutter
Cutting board
Ruler
Few old t-shirts

1. If you are using t-shirts remove all seams and lay out flat. Cutting the fabric can be tricky you want it to be snug in the holes of the canvas but not so tight that it disfigures the rug. For the t-shirt cotton I cut 2in by 4in rectangles. You can play with the width and length to get your perfect rug.

2. To begin prodding, turn the canvas to the backside. Leave a 2 in border around the outside. Place one end of the rectangle through one hole and push it though to the front then put other end through the hole directly next to it . Do not put 2 rectangles in the same hole. The front will look shaggy. I skipped 2 holes between each rectangle which gave the back a checkerboard look. Continue this way till the whole rug is covered with rectangles.

3. To finish the rug turn the 2 in border to the backside, cut the corners at 45 degree angles so they lay flat. If you are going to be using the rug on a slippery surface you can purchase a sealant at the craft store that will keep the loops in and prevent slipping. Or you can make a backing fabric by cutting a piece of burlap (or any other fabric you chose) the same size as the rug including the border then turn the borders back and sew the backing to the rug by hand.

Inhabitat's How to make your own terrarium

HOW TO: Make your own terrariumby Jill Fehrenbacher

I found a large, clear, sphere-shaped glass bowl at a floral supply shop. A glass vessel of this shape is called a “rose bowl” and they come in many different sizes. Mine happens to have a 15″ diameter at the widest point. Part of the success of these types of container gardens is providing for good drainage. This is because the glass container does not have a bottom drainage hole like a regular flower pot.

1. Start with a 1 1/2″ layer of small pebbles on the floor of the container.

2. Cover the pebbles with a thin layer of loose charcoal, which will help keep the water in your garden from stagnating.

3. Cover the charcoal with an inch layer of sphagnum moss. Look in the aquarium/terrarium section of a pet store for the pebbles, charcoal, and moss.

4. Now add enough potting soil so that the total contents occupy about 1/4 of the container. There will be some settling of the layers. Mine settled about 3/4″ over about 6 months, so add extra soil to account for this.

5. Choose small or miniature plant varieties so they do not overtake the container. I have tried lots of different types of plants over the two years my garden has existed. Some have done well and some have died. You will have to experiment to see what type of plants do well for you. The plants that have found to be the best suited are asparagus fern, mistletoe fig, and succulent aloe varieties. Add rocks, driftwood, etc to create the atmosphere of your choice. I could not resist adding some “fauna” to my garden, which include a very cute, tiny ceramic turtle and a plastic 8-point buck. These happen to be the favorite additions for most guests. (Jill adds - “The miniature animals are crucial! Otherwise its just a garden in a glass bowl…”)
You can find miniature plastic animals at OurayToys.com and ceramic animals at GreatThailand.com

The most important thing about the care of this type of garden is to avoid over-watering. Like I mentioned before, there is no drainage hole, so add enough water so that the soil is just moist. Error on the dry side because too much water will cause your plants to rot. There should not be a pool of standing water in the bottom pebble layer. I also recommend not fertilizing the plants to ensure that they remain small. My garden is placed on a coffee table in the center of a medium sized room with two windows. This seems to be enough light to keep it alive and well.

Happy terrariuming!

Kate's Twig Platter Design*Sponge

What You’ll Need:
1. old plates, bowls

2. branch or twigs (look for pieces that are at least and inch in diameter and relatively straight)

3. saw and mitre box (or compound mitre saw)

4. epoxy (look for the one that is quick set and dries clear)5. epoxy applicator (popsicle stick, chop stick, skewer, etc.)

Instructions:

1. clean your plates very thoroughly and dry completely.

2. cut the branch cleanly on both ends at the height you desire. you should try different heights and play around with it, because once you glue there’s no going back. to check if you made clean level cuts, you should be able to balance the plates on the twigs without glue.

3. once you have your pieces, mix your epoxy and apply to the bottom of the first twig with a popsicle stick or chopstick. place in the center of the plate, press down and hold for a minute. if you feel uncertain eyeballing the center point, you can measure and mark it with a pen.

4. apply glue to the top of the first twig and set the second plates on it. hold for a minute.

5. apply glue to the second twig and place in center of second bowl. hold for a minute.

6. allow platter to sit undisturbed for 24 hours.

NOTE: this piece is most definitely hand wash only. use a damp cloth to clean the plates. the piece will be sturdy enough to carry by the sticks if you prefer though.

VOILA!

Julia's Vintage Elevated Dog Feeder Design*Sponge

What You’ll Need:

-Wooden crate (sanded well to prevent splinters)
-Stainless steel food bowls (Amazon.com and Pet Food stores have affordable options)
-Jig saw
-Drill with large wood drill bit
-Wood sealer

Directions:

1. You will need two dog bowls with a lip (one for water, one for food). The lip will keep the bowls resting in the top of the crate. I used 2-quart stainless steel bowls that I got at my local chain pet store.

2. Measure your dog bowls to determine how much surface area you need to hold them. Allow an extra two inches on each side of the bowls and two inches between the bowls (total of an additional 6 inches in length and 4 inches in depth). If you don’t leave enough room around the bowls, the integrity of the box may fail the first time your dog accidentally sits on it.

3. Scour your local antique shops for a wooden crate that suits your style. It needs a top, obviously, but having a bottom is optional. Our crate is 26 inches by 13 inches and 9 inches tall.

4. We leave ours unpainted, but I recommend protecting the wood with a clear sealer. Auggie is a slobbery dog, and protecting the wood against water damage will keep it looking good.

5. Measure the inside diameter of the bowls and make paper templates. Lay the templates on your crate until the layout is symmetrical. Trace the templates onto your crate top.

6. Use a wood drill to make a hole inside the area that will hold the bowls. This hole will be a starter place for the jig saw blade.

7. Use a jig saw to cut out the holes. I once used a handsaw to do this, and it took a couple hours. But if that’s all you have, it will work. Use what grandpa calls elbow grease. Once the holes are cut sand the crate and holes again to prevent any splinters for your pet.

8. I also put little protective feet on the bottom to keep the crate from scratching the wood floors. You can pick these up at your local hardware store.

9. If your box comes with a lid you can easily add hinges from your local hardware store to create a unit that acts as storage as well as a feeder.

10. Place your bowls in the feeder, fill with food and let your pets enjoy!

Recycled Cake/Cupcake Stands Design*Sponge

Kate’s Recycled Cake/Cupcake Stands
What You’ll Need:
- old plates (any size)- old candlesticks or vases (look for anything that is wider at the bottom, with a sturdy base and a flat top)- epoxy (from a hardware store)- masking tape- popsicle stick or q-tips without their fluff (something to apply the epoxy with)- paper plate or scrap cardboard (something to mix the epoxy on that you can throw out)- rags and cleaning solution
For the variation:
- template of silhouette (or you can free hand)- contact paper- scissors- spray paint
Directions:
1. Pick out which pieces you want to put together and test it out. They should be able to balance on each other without the glue. If not, you may want to rethink your choices..is your plate too uneven or does your base have a flat enough top?
2. Clean all plates and vases/candlesticks thoroughly. Dry completely.
3. Measure the back of the plate and mark a dot in the center with a pen or marker.
4. Squeeze out a little epoxy and follow its directions for use. After it’s mixed, apply it to the top of the candlestick/vase and gently place your base upside down onto the plate, using your dot as a guide to help you center it.
5. Let it sit for a few minutes, then gently press down on it to hold it in place and get rid of any excess epoxy with a q-tip. Apple tape on four sides to anchor it while it dries.

6. Let it dry overnight.

VOILA!
Note: While these are sturdier than you would expect, they are not dishwasher safe. I recommend gently cleaning by hand.

Silhouette version:
After the cakestand is glued together and dried overnight, you can pretty much do whatever you want with it: paint, decoupage, etc. I really love Sarah Cihat’s graphic patterns so I decided to do something similar on one of my less attractive plate/vase combos.
1. Trace and cut out your pattern on contact paper. Make sure contact paper still has its paper backing on it when you do this.
2. Gently peel contact paper away from its backing and place the sticky side on your plate where you want the design to go. Press down evenly and smooth out any and all air bubbles. Make sure all edges are firmly pressed down.

3. Prime the entire plate and base with primer spray paint and let dry (you will need to flip it over a couple times, make sure the top is dry before you flip it to spray the bottom).
4. Paint it whatever color you wish. Let dry completely.
5. When dry, use an exacto to carefully lift the contact paper.
Note: This plate is not meant to have your bare food placed on it. Usually I place cupcakes or pies in their pans on cakestands. If you want to be able to put food directly on it, I recommend sealing it with a varnish or sealant.
*if you’d prefer to buy rather than craft, you can pick up these exact cake stands from kate at her etsy shop right here!

Mason Jar Lights from Whitney Design*Sponge

mason jar lights
what you’ll need:-vintage mason jars-hanging lamp kit with low wattage bulbs (try your local lighting store, home depot or lowes)-ceiling light plate
1. punch holes in each mason jar lid, large enough to fit the light bulb cords through (appx. 1 inch). as always, be safe and use gloves and a steady hand when punching holes. to punch the hole you can use either a hammer and nails (which you’ll need to then widen for the cords) or a larger tool that you can tap through.
2. unscrew the lid, insert the bulbs into each jar, feeding the cord through the holes in the lid. whitney suggests using a lamp kit that includes tension clasps to keep the bulb from sliding.
3. tighten the lid back on the jar and adjust the bulb to its desired height (using the tension clasps).
4. using a store-bought ceiling light plate- drill holes into the plate to pull all of your cords through (depending on how many jar-lights you will be hanging). pull the lights through, allowing enough cord to hang the lights at your desired height, and then tie a knot at the top to keep them from falling back through the ceiling plate.
5. contact your local electrician to install the lights into your ceiling- we do not suggest trying to install these yourself unless you’re a trained electrician.

Just Tutes Wrap Pants -Fantastically Comfortable

double-tie wrap pants

Simplest, comfiest pants ever.

Your basic pattern shape:

The crotch notch is 12" x 3" (with the curvy bit). This should fit almost any body, unless very large or small.

For the rest of the dimensions, you want to figure out how long you want them (full length, capri, etc) and then add an inch or two for the bottom hem.

To figure out how wide, measure you waist and divide that by 4. Then add 3-6 inches to that number to get how wide your pattern piece should be.

(You want to add enough length to wrap it around yourself enough to be discreet plus a hem allowance. Since everyone's waist size is different, it is prudent for me not to give a absolute number. However, I will say that I use my waist measurement/4, and then add 2/3 of that number. If you want to go ahead and figure yours out that way, please do. If you have math aversion, just wing it).

The pattern piece above is only half of one leg. Place pattern piece on folded fabric, the fold being the side with the crotch notch (the top edge in the picture). Cut 2.

Open up both cut piece and place right sides together. Sew along crotch notch.

Open up pants and find the waist because it's all hemming from here on out. I highly recommend marking the two waist pieces and bringing them together often while hemming because it is frighteningly easy to get confused and hem the wrong piece or attach a tie to the leg bottom. Or at least I've done it, so it happens anyway. Use some chalk or do a quick baste on the waist to keep it all in order.

First, hem the side of the legs. Good time for funky embellishments or decorative stitches.
Then the bottom cuffs.

Last fold over and hem the waist. For the ties, I usually use bias tape, mostly because I have a goofy amount of it and I'm a little lazy. But you can use anything - make your own, ribbons, whatever will be strong enough. I suggest it be at least a half inch wide, however, to give the ties a firm hold which won't distort the hang of the pants. Reinforce the seams holding the ties.

Oh, and I know you know, but make sure they are long enough! My husband likes to wrap both ties around to his front (he thinks someone may try to untie him from the back - maybe a repressed childhood trauma?).

I'm fine with the back tie, but there are occasions when you may want to double knot. Too long is better than too short (general life rule).
And that's it! All that's left to do is figure out how to get them on :)

Miniature Potted Pond by Canadian Living

Create a miniature potted pond
Add an aquatic accent to your backyard, balcony or deck.
By Alyne Samson

Supplies:

• Watertight glazed-ceramic or plastic pot, at least 50 to 60 cm tall and 45 cm in diameter

• 3 or 4 bricks

• Pebbles or gravel

• 3 or 4 aquatic plants

• Goldfish (optional)

Choosing the plants

• To make a pleasing multilevel arrangement and help keep the water clear, choose from three types of aquatic plants:

1. An immersible oxygenating plant to help keep the water clear;

2. A floating plant; and

3. A tall plant with leaves that will extend upward out of the water.

• In this arrangement (shown, top left) are:

1. Immersible Bacopa caroliniana, or water hyssop;

2. Hybrid pink-flowered Nymphaea, or water lily 'Firecrest' (the leaves float, but the roots are potted), and purple-flowered Eichhornia crassipes, or water hyacinth (the whole plant floats); and

3. Tall Acorus calamus 'Variegatus,' or variegated sweet flag.• Ask nursery staff to help you choose a good mix of plants.

Instructions:

1. Thoroughly rinse the pot, bricks and pebbles. Set the pot in a sunny spot, ensuring that it is level. Fill it with water. Let stand until water reaches air temperature.
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2. Stacking bricks to make small platforms to raise the pots and using pebbles to weigh them down, add the plants, immersing the oxygenating plant. If you've purchased a goldfish to add, let it float inside its water-filled bag in the pot for about 30 minutes to acclimatize it to the water temperature, then release it.

Care and maintenance:

• Check the water level regularly, particularly in hot weather, and add water when necessary (make sure to match the temperature to that of the water already in the pot to avoid shocking the fish).
• Feed the fish with floating granulated fish food, following manufacturer's instructions.
• In June and July, add fish-safe fertilizer for the aquatic plants, following manufacturer's instructions.
• In September, protect the pot with a plastic cover overnight if it's chilly.
• As soon as there is a risk of frost, bring the pot indoors and place it near a sunny window. Alternatively, empty the pot, storing the plants in a bucket indoors and the fish in an aquarium for the winter. Don't leave the pot outside; if water collects inside it and freezes, the pot may break.

One Hour Crafts Sexy String Knickers

How to Make Sexy String Panties for V-Day!

Em and I were on the phone talking when I was on holiday last week. We were chatting about Valentines Day craft tutorials to put on this site. We both decided, after not very long, that we would not recommend anyone make a mushy card for their boyfriend. A loveheart cake may have him bolting out the door. A romantic framed photo and you may just never see him again (Though marrieds may very well indulge in this sort of present-giving). We realised a while back that men are funny creatures (especially in the first few years - and before they have put a ring on your finger) who like to chase. Who are we to get in the way?So, we decided to steer away from the how-to-turn-your-guy-off-in-two-seconds presents and present him with something that is much more likely to please him on this special day. Ta-da. This tutorial was born. These panties took such a small amount of time to make and were great fun. So, leave it to the men to present YOU with chocolates, mushy cards, stupid teddy bears holding hearts that say “I wuv you” and hit them where it hurts……You Will Need

The Pattern (Step 1)

Fabric - your choice - tshirt material, leather, vinyl, lace fabric, bright pink fur, whatever you like. If you are a die-hard recycler like we are, cut up your love’s old tshirt and use it for the material. He won’t be angry, we promise.Underwear elastic - we bought it in bright pink

Ribbon for the ties

Thread for the sewing machine

Scisssors, pins

Sewing machine, overlocker

Step 1
Download the pattern below. Enlarge it to A3 size on a photocopier. This is a size ten Australian pattern. Size ten in Australia is a small. If you are larger, just take a pair of panties you already have and work out the size you need from that.Click here to download Sexy Panties Pattern

Step 2

When you have printed out the pattern and enlarged it to the correct size, pin the whole pattern piece to the fabric you have chosen. There is no need to leave a seam allowance with this pattern.
Step 3
Cut out the main piece, then cut piece 2 of the pattern from the same fabric.

Step 4

Pin the crotch lining (unless you are making these crotchless of course ) to the inside of the panties fabric. Sew this with an overlocking stitch onto the panties piece. We sewed two straight lines across (as in photo above).

Step 5

Change your machine to the stitch which is a zig-zag with a broken line. This stitch will allow some stretch.

Place the underwear elastic on the edge of the panties and sew it on using the broken zig-zag stitch. Hold the end of the fabric which is furthest away from you and this will help you guide the fabric through. We didn’t bother to pin it all, deciding instead to live on the edge! When you are sewing the elastic you can stretch it a little with the hand which is closest to you, giving the pants more elasticity and a little more power to grip to your cheeks.

HOT TIP: If it is too difficult to grip the fabric with your hand while sewing you can grip the thread ends with your left hand and gently pull the fabric through - a great little sewing trick.

When you come to the corner of the fabric, fold the elastic around the corners and continue to sew until you have edged the whole piece with elastic.

Step 6
Cut the ribbon into four lengths about 30cm (12 inches long).
With the panties right side facing down, sew the ribbon onto each of the four corners. We just used the same stitch for this and went slowly over them a few times, forward then reversing. It is pretty important that these stay, especially if wearing a skirt (unless of course Britney is more your style. In which case, why are you reading this tutorial? huh?)

Step 7

Add a litte something to the panties by cutting out a pink love heart and sewing it to the front of the panties. We just used a straight stitch for this. We were about to sew the heart on, when one husband (who shall remain nameless) returned home and repositioned it a little lower for us!

You like? Trust me these are a WHOLE LOT skimpier on than the photo here. Unfortunately neither Em nor me wanted to model them and display our bottoms to the world, so you will have to make some and see!
Enjoy! Why not get together with a bunch of girlfriends and have a panty making afternoon? We had a lot of fun and a lot of laughs. These took us about ten minutes to make at the most. Hmm maybe there will be more underwear making around here….Mia and Em
xxx

Paint your Laminate Countertops with Blissfully Domestic

Transform your laminate countertops with paintNovember 9th, 2008 by Tamra Klaty Print This Post Email This Post

Painting your laminate countertops is a cheap, easy way to beautify your kitchen!

Tired of your outdated laminate countertops but not willing to splurge on new replacements? You can completely change the look of your countertops by painting them.

• Prepare your countertops. Light sanding by hand and washing with water is all that’s needed.
  
• Prime with an oil based primer. Apply two coats, allowing for drying time in between. Remember to first cover with plastic or tape all areas you don’t want paint on.
  
• Paint, either by rolling on an oil-based paint, or by spray painting. You’ll need at least two coats.
  
• Apply an oil-based protective polyurethane finish. You will need four or five coats.
  

I transformed my plain white countertops into expensive looking countertops that resemble granite!

Prime: After the initial prep work of sanding, I began by using Kilz brand primer. It’s great for covering everything that needs to be covered.

Paint: Instead of using regular paint, I chose a flecked spray paint that looks like stone when it dries. Don’t try to get it perfect on with the first coat. Apply lightly, then wait fifteen minutes to apply again. It may take up to five times to get perfect coverage.

Finish: Once the paint has fully dried, you can begin applying your polyurethane finish. This will protect your color and prevent chips. Apply several coats, allowing ample drying time in between.

I have a well-used home with several children and my countertops are holding up nicely. I love the new look!

The Vintage Laundry Wall Stencil

I created this pattern on my studio wall at The Vintage Laundry Studios in Austin, Texas for two reasons. One being that I just felt this large expanse of wall needed some interest. And secondly, I love the tone on tone effect that it has.

I began with painting my wall Musical Mist (150c-1) flat interior by Behr. Then I took a long level and measured one of the octagon shapes out on a centered place on the wall and placed 2.5" painters tape along the inside of the shape. The octagon is 20" x 20" at horizontal and vertical bars. Then I added a 10" square to the sides and top and bottom and then just expanded on that until the wall was full.

After all the tape was down I used a matte medium to seal the edges of the tape, so that the top color wouldn't bleed under the tape. I let that dry thoroughly and then painted over the whole wall with Hawaiian Shell (150C-2) by Behr .

Let dry again and remove tape and presto! a beautiful wall with a great graphic "Jonathan Adler-esque" look to it! It took me about 12 -14 hrs to do from start to finish and the cost was about $50.

Lolly Chops Abraham Owl Tutorial

Abraham Owl

Hi there lovely ladies (and possibly a gent or two)...my name is Abraham Owl and I will be guest blogging for LollyChops today. She plum wore herself out from sewing all day long yesterday and called in a panic asking that I write up a post for her. I graciously accepted and decided to do a post on my favorite subject. Me.
In this post I will chronicle the story of my life. My rocky tumultuous beginnings through the dramatic turn of events that lead me to meet the woman of my dreams. I promise not to leave a single detail out. You might laugh. You might cry....regardless... you will not leave with an empty heart.
Sew let us begin shall we......

The beginning....I was born a thin piece of cloth in the tiny town of Bedford, Texas on November 25, 2008 at approximately 12:31CST (as I am writing this I am an old leathery man of 11 owl hours (that's roughly 4 dog years, 16 rabbit years and 3 hedgehog years - it's practically ancient I know)).As a toddler I was cut into two pieces of cloth and single stitched together with my bottom and one side (for stuffing) left open.

In kindergarten I acquired a loose open stitch down both sides of my bottom (but not through either seam). The strings from this stitch were left dangling so I could be cinched a little (it sounds painful but I promise you.. I was so young I did not feel a thing).

My parents decided that I needed a round bottom so they acquired one for me in matching fabric for a very good price. My round bottom was pinned on either side to each seam... and then (this next picture is a little graphic so you might want to shelter any small children and hamsters that might be in the vicinity and get some Hot Chocolate for fortitude)....

...and then my bobbin strings were pulled to cinch me just a little bit (this was while I was in grade school).

Once that harrowing nightmare was over my bottom was attached to my owl body with several pins (felt like a hundred if you were to ask me). I looked like a merry-go-round from the house of horrors. Honestly.

In my teen years I was lead back to the torture table (aka.. sewing machine table) and my bottom was completely sewn to both of my sides (in a circular fashion.. makes sense since my bottom is round and all). I was snipped all the way around my bottom seam (not through the stitching of course). This is evidently to give me room to breath and stretch. I don't know about you.. but I do not plan on doing any breathing through my bottom parts. I mean... that's just not gentlemanly at all.
Once all that snipping and stretching was complete it was time to have a small thick round cardboard like substance (or chipboard if you have it) inserted into my side. Again.. completely painless but a tad on the violating side. I am not a turkey here folks. I don't generally take well to being stuffed.

This next part of my life is when the trauma from my youth really caught up with me (these were my college years). In a matter of minutes I went from a svelte "handsome" Owl to a round chubby "he's so cute" Owl (notice how my head flap was pinned down approximately 1 3/4 to 2 inches over before I was stuffed (only through the front piece of course.. cause the stuffing needs to go all the way up to the top of where the fold is folded)). I was in counseling for the next several hours (in an attempt to learn to deal with my new found round)...so my cousin "Spotted Owl" agreed to fill in for me using his baby pictures instead of mine. I had a hole in my side folks. It's understandable that I would not want my picture taken during these trying times.

Once I had reached "that age" my mom decided that I needed eyes. She placed them right under my head flap on either side and ran a needle and thread from one side to the other (right through my teeny tiny little brain) until my eyes were sewn on tight (she squeezed my head in order to get the needle through). Once she was done with that she then proceeded to tack down my flap using simple stitches that did not go all the way through the top piece - just the one on the inside (she's so darn crafty). Honestly.

Nextly.. moms decided that I needed some dashing wings. not that those puny little things are going to really get my anywhere.. but again... it's all about being cute (counseling is obviously over...I decided to embrace the cute factor and just roll with it (I am good at rolling with it I discovered).

Before my story can continue, my cousin decided that he liked this whole blog thing and talked me into sharing two of his family pics. One of him (a full body shot with his feet attached). He's such a show-off. I do not have feet yet.. but I hope to save up enough to get me a pair.. sooon.

...and then another of his sister SpottyPants Owl (she's as old as the hills - not kidding) and her new boyfriend (Prototype Owl The IV..honestly..that dude is such a snob.. I think it's the whole fancy schmancy name thing he has going on).

So let's get back to talking about me and how I met the love of my life!First ... I need to explain something. There comes a time in every young Owl's life when he goes through "the change"... It's a molting of sorts.. where you change from a flowery teal colored Owl to a much more mature round circles and triangles in orange, red and green colored Owl. So I am the cute orange guy in the pics below (just roll with it.. it makes the story much more interesting...trust me).

How we met....On a bright sunny fall afternoon (fall is so my season).. I was hanging with my cousin, his sister and another friend.. when out of the corner of my eyes I spotted a lovely lady headed in our direction. I can honestly say it was love at first site... I knew we were meant to be together. Don't ask me how I knew. I just felt it in my heart.

She tentatively approached - her wings all a flutter (for the dudes out there...she had some hot wings)... I pointed in her direction and beckoned her to me.

I could see the love in her deep green eyes almost instantly. She could feel it too. A strange karma pulling us together.

She gently laid her head on my shoulder and it was as if we suddenly melded into each other. Seamless. Two hearts beating as one. I asked her what her name was and she whispered ever so quietly.. ....weeennnnndeeeee. Sigh. The name of an angel. I swears.

Within a few minutes we were engaged and headed to the photography studio to have our official engagement pictures taken (the announcements come out in the Sunday papers). We will of course be married by then and should have our second child on the way (you gotta move fast when you are an Owl).
Pictures of our little ones will be posted soon. Wendy and I will also be on Oprah within a few days. Lolly will post the show date and time as soon as it's confirmed.
Thanks for letting me host for Lolly today and thanks for letting me share my story.

You can download me (Abraham Owl) (in PDF format) --> HERE <--

You can download the pattern for Wendy The Bird (Abe's woman) HERE.