Welcome guests -- and reassure them that they're ringing the right bell -- with a mat displaying your house number.

You can easily embellish an inexpensive doormat with hardware-store supplies to create an accent for your entrance that is both functional and decorative.

Materials

Coir doormat (18-by-30-inch coir mat, which is made from the stiff fibers of coconut husks)Scissors

Masking tape in 3-inch and 3/4-inch widths

Address numbers

Card stock

Utility knife

Ruler

T pins

12-ounce canEnamel spray paint

1. Create a border around its perimeter with 3-inch tape, positioning it 1 1/4 inches from edge. For a second border, affix 3/4-inch tape, leaving 1/2 inch between borders. Print out figures (ours are 650-point type), then photocopy onto card stock, and cut out with a utility knife; or choose 6-inch numbers from a hardware store. Use a ruler to center numbers; pin paper ones to mat.

2. In a well-ventilated area, hold spray paint (in a contrasting color) 4 to 6 inches over mat and work in small circles; bring closer to paint edges of mat.

3. Let dry at least 2 hours before removing tape and numbers.

White Prodded Rug

**I'm not sure where this tutorial came from so if it is yours please accept my apologies and let me know and of course I will give you full credit.

You will need:
Rug canvas (I bought mine at Hobby Lobby only $2.49)
Something to push the fabric through the canvas with i.e. large knitting needle, latch hook, prodding tool.
About 10 yards of fabric (it really depends on the weight of the fabric and the amount or pile that you want)

Optional:
Rotary cutter
Cutting board
Ruler
Few old t-shirts

1. If you are using t-shirts remove all seams and lay out flat. Cutting the fabric can be tricky you want it to be snug in the holes of the canvas but not so tight that it disfigures the rug. For the t-shirt cotton I cut 2in by 4in rectangles. You can play with the width and length to get your perfect rug.

2. To begin prodding, turn the canvas to the backside. Leave a 2 in border around the outside. Place one end of the rectangle through one hole and push it though to the front then put other end through the hole directly next to it . Do not put 2 rectangles in the same hole. The front will look shaggy. I skipped 2 holes between each rectangle which gave the back a checkerboard look. Continue this way till the whole rug is covered with rectangles.

3. To finish the rug turn the 2 in border to the backside, cut the corners at 45 degree angles so they lay flat. If you are going to be using the rug on a slippery surface you can purchase a sealant at the craft store that will keep the loops in and prevent slipping. Or you can make a backing fabric by cutting a piece of burlap (or any other fabric you chose) the same size as the rug including the border then turn the borders back and sew the backing to the rug by hand.

Inhabitat's How to make your own terrarium

HOW TO: Make your own terrariumby Jill Fehrenbacher

I found a large, clear, sphere-shaped glass bowl at a floral supply shop. A glass vessel of this shape is called a “rose bowl” and they come in many different sizes. Mine happens to have a 15″ diameter at the widest point. Part of the success of these types of container gardens is providing for good drainage. This is because the glass container does not have a bottom drainage hole like a regular flower pot.

1. Start with a 1 1/2″ layer of small pebbles on the floor of the container.

2. Cover the pebbles with a thin layer of loose charcoal, which will help keep the water in your garden from stagnating.

3. Cover the charcoal with an inch layer of sphagnum moss. Look in the aquarium/terrarium section of a pet store for the pebbles, charcoal, and moss.

4. Now add enough potting soil so that the total contents occupy about 1/4 of the container. There will be some settling of the layers. Mine settled about 3/4″ over about 6 months, so add extra soil to account for this.

5. Choose small or miniature plant varieties so they do not overtake the container. I have tried lots of different types of plants over the two years my garden has existed. Some have done well and some have died. You will have to experiment to see what type of plants do well for you. The plants that have found to be the best suited are asparagus fern, mistletoe fig, and succulent aloe varieties. Add rocks, driftwood, etc to create the atmosphere of your choice. I could not resist adding some “fauna” to my garden, which include a very cute, tiny ceramic turtle and a plastic 8-point buck. These happen to be the favorite additions for most guests. (Jill adds - “The miniature animals are crucial! Otherwise its just a garden in a glass bowl…”)
You can find miniature plastic animals at OurayToys.com and ceramic animals at GreatThailand.com

The most important thing about the care of this type of garden is to avoid over-watering. Like I mentioned before, there is no drainage hole, so add enough water so that the soil is just moist. Error on the dry side because too much water will cause your plants to rot. There should not be a pool of standing water in the bottom pebble layer. I also recommend not fertilizing the plants to ensure that they remain small. My garden is placed on a coffee table in the center of a medium sized room with two windows. This seems to be enough light to keep it alive and well.

Happy terrariuming!

Kate's Twig Platter Design*Sponge

What You’ll Need:
1. old plates, bowls

2. branch or twigs (look for pieces that are at least and inch in diameter and relatively straight)

3. saw and mitre box (or compound mitre saw)

4. epoxy (look for the one that is quick set and dries clear)5. epoxy applicator (popsicle stick, chop stick, skewer, etc.)

Instructions:

1. clean your plates very thoroughly and dry completely.

2. cut the branch cleanly on both ends at the height you desire. you should try different heights and play around with it, because once you glue there’s no going back. to check if you made clean level cuts, you should be able to balance the plates on the twigs without glue.

3. once you have your pieces, mix your epoxy and apply to the bottom of the first twig with a popsicle stick or chopstick. place in the center of the plate, press down and hold for a minute. if you feel uncertain eyeballing the center point, you can measure and mark it with a pen.

4. apply glue to the top of the first twig and set the second plates on it. hold for a minute.

5. apply glue to the second twig and place in center of second bowl. hold for a minute.

6. allow platter to sit undisturbed for 24 hours.

NOTE: this piece is most definitely hand wash only. use a damp cloth to clean the plates. the piece will be sturdy enough to carry by the sticks if you prefer though.

VOILA!

Julia's Vintage Elevated Dog Feeder Design*Sponge

What You’ll Need:

-Wooden crate (sanded well to prevent splinters)
-Stainless steel food bowls (Amazon.com and Pet Food stores have affordable options)
-Jig saw
-Drill with large wood drill bit
-Wood sealer

Directions:

1. You will need two dog bowls with a lip (one for water, one for food). The lip will keep the bowls resting in the top of the crate. I used 2-quart stainless steel bowls that I got at my local chain pet store.

2. Measure your dog bowls to determine how much surface area you need to hold them. Allow an extra two inches on each side of the bowls and two inches between the bowls (total of an additional 6 inches in length and 4 inches in depth). If you don’t leave enough room around the bowls, the integrity of the box may fail the first time your dog accidentally sits on it.

3. Scour your local antique shops for a wooden crate that suits your style. It needs a top, obviously, but having a bottom is optional. Our crate is 26 inches by 13 inches and 9 inches tall.

4. We leave ours unpainted, but I recommend protecting the wood with a clear sealer. Auggie is a slobbery dog, and protecting the wood against water damage will keep it looking good.

5. Measure the inside diameter of the bowls and make paper templates. Lay the templates on your crate until the layout is symmetrical. Trace the templates onto your crate top.

6. Use a wood drill to make a hole inside the area that will hold the bowls. This hole will be a starter place for the jig saw blade.

7. Use a jig saw to cut out the holes. I once used a handsaw to do this, and it took a couple hours. But if that’s all you have, it will work. Use what grandpa calls elbow grease. Once the holes are cut sand the crate and holes again to prevent any splinters for your pet.

8. I also put little protective feet on the bottom to keep the crate from scratching the wood floors. You can pick these up at your local hardware store.

9. If your box comes with a lid you can easily add hinges from your local hardware store to create a unit that acts as storage as well as a feeder.

10. Place your bowls in the feeder, fill with food and let your pets enjoy!